Beyond Green Bottle Soju:
The Real Story of Sool - Korean Alcohol
What comes to mind when you think of Korean alcohol? You probably think of 'green bottle soju' first. However, traditional Korean soju is completely different. It's a premium spirit distilled from rice with about 40% alcohol content, characterized by its clear taste and subtle rice-derived sweetness. The green bottle soju we drink today is technically 'diluted soju,' which only began mass production in the 1960s. Instead of rice, it's made from starches like cassava.
Sooldamhwa wants to introduce you to authentic Korean alcohol, not this diluted soju. We want to share the undiscovered charms of Korean traditional spirits. These are unique drinks made with different water, rice, and nuruk (fermentation starter) from various regions. Like wine, they're elegant; like whiskey, they're profound. These are treasures crafted with centuries of artisanal expertise, and they're all around us. So when did Koreans start brewing these spirits? And how did such a unique drinking culture develop? Let's embark on an fascinating journey through the history of Korean traditional alcohol.
What is Sool?
Sool (술) is the Korean word for alcoholic beverages. While you might be familiar with soju or Korean beer, 'sool' actually encompasses all Korean traditional alcoholic drinks.
The word 'sool' is believed to have originated from 'soobool(수불)', named after the bubbling process during fermentation that resembles boiling over a fire. The name evolved from 'soobool' to 'soo-eul' and finally to 'sool', with the term 'sool' becoming widely used during the mid-Joseon Dynasty.
The History of Sool
Historical records show that Koreans have been brewing alcohol since the Gojoseon period (5th century BC). Initially, alcohol was primarily used as an offering in celestial ceremonies rather than for drinking. Brewing techniques gradually evolved alongside agricultural development and international Interactions.
The Silla period brings us particularly interesting drinking customs. They had a 14-sided dice called 'Juryeonggu,' with each face inscribed with drinking game penalties like 'dance without music,' 'bottoms up and laugh loudly,' or 'recite a poem.' People would play drinking games with this dice during their gatherings.
The Goryeo period marked the first appearance of distilled spirits in Korean alcohol history. The royal court established the 'Yangonseo,' a government office managing alcohol for royal and national ceremonies. As a Buddhist nation, Goryeo's temples also produced alcohol in large quantities for Buddhist and national events.
The Joseon dynasty saw further evolution of drinking culture. The shift from regular rice to glutinous rice led to more refined spirits. The most notable development was the rise of home brewing culture (gayangjuju), where each household created their own unique alcohol, leading to a golden age of traditional spirits. Korea's four distinct seasons also influenced seasonal specialty drinks. The people of Joseon enjoyed different drinks for each season: Dugyeonju, made with azalea flowers, in spring; Gukhwaju, infused with chrysanthemums, in autumn. The royal court produced even more sophisticated spirits, with detailed records in the Joseon Dynasty's Historical documents showing various alcohols for different seasons and events.
The Rise of Diluted Soju
Korea's brilliant alcohol culture suffered a major setback during the Japanese colonial period. The Japanese colonial government banned home brewing, severing the centuries-old tradition of household brewing. Even after liberation, restrictions on using rice for brewing continued due to food shortages, leading to the rise of cheap, mass-produced diluted soju in green bottles as the popular choice.
The alcohol content of diluted soju has changed with the times. When first released in 1965, it was 35% ABV, gradually decreasing to 25% in the 1970s and 23% in the 1990s. Entering the 2000s, the alcohol content was further reduced to reflect growing health consciousness. Today, the lowest-proof soju on the market is 'Seonyang Soju' at 14.9% ABV.
The Renaissance of Traditional Spirits
Today, Korean traditional alcohol is experiencing a remarkable renaissance. While time-honored breweries continue to preserve their historic crafts, a new wave of young brewers is bringing fresh innovation to the industry. The sector has seen incredible growth, with the number of traditional breweries reaching 1,561 as of 2022. The movement has even attracted Korean celebrities, including hip-hop artist Jay Park, who have ventured into the traditional alcohol business.
The revival is taking many forms - from creative experiments like basil-infused makgeolli, to emergence of specialized traditional alcohol bars. These changes are helping Korean traditional spirits find a new audience among younger generations. Social media has played a crucial role, with enthusiasts sharing discoveries and reviews, turning the exploration of new releases and regional specialties into a cultural movement.
While preserving centuries of heritage, Korean traditional alcohol is being reimagined for contemporary tastes. It has transcended its role as merely a beverage to become both a cherished cultural legacy and a promising asset for the future.
Sooldamhwa invites you to experience these treasured Korean traditional spirits.
Join us on a monthly journey to explore the enchanting world of Korean alcohol, carefully curated and rich with centuries of tradition.
The Main 5 Types of Korean Sool
Soju
Korea's representative distilled spirit. While primarily made from rice, it can also be made from sweet potatoes or barley.
Modern diluted soju in green bottles typically has 16-17% ABV, while traditional distilled soju reaches around 40%. Known for its clean, intense flavor, traditional versions preserve the distinct characteristics of their base ingredients. Premium varieties like Andong Soju, Munbaeju, and Lee Gang Ju are designated as Korean Cultural Heritage or National Treasures.
The word "soju" means "burned alcohol," with traditions dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty. The distillation process removes impurities, believed to result in milder hangovers. Modern soju is served chilled, while traditional versions are enjoyed at room temperature. It pairs well with most Korean dishes, especially Korean BBQ (samgyeopsal).
Each region in Korea has its own representative soju brand: Seoul's Chamisul, Busan's Good Day, Gyeongsang's Chum Churum, and Jeju's Hallasan. People take pride in their local brands, and trying different regional sojus has become part of the Korean travel experience.
Makgeolli
A traditional Korean alcohol with a milky-white appearance. With an ABV of less than 10%, it offers a gentle sweetness from rice, rich savory flavor, and a natural fizzy sensation. Depending on the brewing method, some varieties have minimal sweetness or prominent sourness. Made primarily from rice, nuruk (Korean fermentation starter), and water, though some breweries use wheat or barley instead of rice. Recently, innovative variations featuring ingredients like basil and fruits have emerged.
Makgeolli is also known as "Takju" (탁주), where "tak" means cloudy, referring to its opaque appearance. Unlike clear filtered alcohols, makgeolli is roughly filtered, hence its name which literally means "roughly filtered alcohol." The broken rice particles create its characteristic milky color. It's known for its high nutritional value, containing abundant probiotics and the highest protein content among all alcoholic beverages. Historically, farmers would drink it during their work to relieve fatigue.
In Korean drinking culture, makgeolli is typically enjoyed with pajeon (Korean pancakes) or spicy dishes. There's a beloved cultural tradition of drinking makgeolli with pajeon on rainy days - the sound of rain, crispy pajeon, and cool makgeolli create a perfect harmony of sensory experiences.
Cheongju
The name means "clear alcohol," reflecting its transparent appearance. With an ABV of 14-16%, it offers a clean, delicate taste and subtle aroma. Its mild alcohol scent and smooth texture make it particularly approachable for newcomers to traditional Korean alcohol.
While similar to Japanese sake, Korean cheongju has distinct characteristics in both production and taste. While sake uses koji mold, cheongju uses nuruk, which contains various fungi and yeasts, creating more complex flavors and aromas. Where sake emphasizes sweetness, cheongju offers a harmonious balance of subtle sweetness, umami, and slight acidity. It also features a more pronounced grain aroma.
Yakju
A traditional Korean alcohol with a clear, golden hue. With an ABV of 13-18%, it features a clean, subtle sweetness and deep grain aroma. Made by fermenting rice with nuruk and water, then filtering until clear. While the brewing process is similar to makgeolli, yakju is distinguished by its clear filtration.
The term "yakju" carries two meanings. First, it means "precious and fine alcohol like medicine," referring to high-quality clear filtered alcohol. Second, it means "alcohol made with medicinal ingredients," specifically referring to traditional Korean medicinal herbs. In this context, yakju was considered both a beverage and medicine, enjoyed for its health benefits.
Traditional yakju varies by season, incorporating different medicinal herbs: spring features azalea flower wine (dugyeonju), summer brings chrysanthemum wine (gukhwaju), autumn offers wines with deodeok root or wild ginseng, and winter welcomes versions with cinnamon or ginger. Some yakju is made purely from rice and nuruk without herbs, yet still considered precious enough to earn the yakju title.
Yakju pairs well with simple Korean dishes, grilled foods, and traditional pancakes. Modern brewers are bringing innovation to traditional yakju, experimenting with fruits, herbs, and alternative grains.
Seasonal Fruit Wine
Korean fruit wine made with native fruits like grapes, peaches, plums, and omija. With 8-15% ABV, it features natural fruit sweetness and sweet-and-sour flavors. Unlike Western wines, traditional Korean fruit wines are made through a unique "steeping" method called "damgumju," where fruits are soaked in sugar or soju. This method better preserves the fruit's natural flavors and aromas.
Recently, regional specialty fruit wines like Jeju tangerine wine and Goheung yuzu wine have gained popularity. Young brewers are combining traditional steeping methods with modern fermentation techniques. These distinctly Korean fruit wines are receiving recognition at prestigious international competitions like the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.